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PSU Wattage Calculator

100% private

Pick a processor and a graphics card. Get the power supply to buy, worked out from what the parts really draw, not the number on the box.

Worked out in this tab from a parts list we check against the makers’ spec sheets. No sign-up, and no PSU brand paying for the answer.

Get a power supply of at least
—

Checking usage…

More parts & room to upgrade

Will a UPS keep it running?

What it costs to run

Where the watts go

Once you know the wattage

Power supplies and UPSs we track

Current picks from our catalogue. Our list of power supplies is short for now, so check each one's wattage against the answer above before you buy, and prefer an 80 Plus certified unit from a brand with a warranty you can claim in India.

Prices and availability as of 9 November 2026, and they change often — Amazon’s page is the one that counts. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you. Browse every PC component we track

Step by step

How to work out what PSU you need

Four steps and about thirty seconds. Most builds only need the first two.

Pick your processor

Choose it from the list. Behind each name is its real maximum draw — AMD’s PPT or Intel’s Maximum Turbo Power — which is often 35–100% more than the TDP printed on the box. Not listed? Choose “Not listed” and type its maximum power.

Pick your graphics card

The card decides most builds. Its board power is added, and its maker’s own recommended PSU size is kept as a minimum. Choose “Integrated graphics only” if the PC has no separate card.

Add the rest, if it matters

RAM, SSDs and fans are set to a typical build. Open “More parts & room to upgrade” for hard drives, a liquid cooler, overclocking, or one size of headroom for a bigger card later.

Read the answer

You get the PSU size to buy, which rule decided it, the connector to look for, a UPS size and the monthly power bill. One button copies it all as plain text, ready to paste into a shop chat or a build forum.

Private by design

No sign-up, no shop behind the answer

Most PSU calculators are run by a company that sells power supplies, and the answer comes with a list of their own models. This one is worked out in your browser from a parts list we keep, and the only thing it suggests is a size.

Nothing is uploaded

Every figure is worked out on your device. The parts you pick and the numbers you type are never placed in a network request, and never go into the page address.

Nothing is saved

Your build is not remembered, not even in your browser’s storage. Close the tab and it is gone.

The working is on the page

“Where the watts go” lists every part, its figure and the maker page it came from, so you can check the answer instead of trusting it.

To be precise about what does leave your device — because “100% private” is easy to say and worth checking. Three things, none of them your build:

1. The first time you change something, this page sends one anonymous message to our counter saying “psu-calculator was used”. Not your parts, not the answer, nothing identifying you.
2. Google Analytics records the page view and that the calculator was used, as on every page of this site. It is told which graphics card you picked from the list (or that you typed your own, or chose integrated graphics) and whether “Room to upgrade” was on — never a wattage, your processor, the hours you game or your electricity price. Block it and the calculator works exactly the same.
3. When the page first loads, its fonts come from Google Fonts, which means Google sees your IP address at that moment — the same as on every page of this site.

The product pictures below the calculator are stored on our own site, so showing them tells Amazon nothing; only clicking one takes you there. The currency for the running cost is guessed from your device’s own time-zone setting, which never leaves the browser. Turn off your wifi, reload, and keep calculating. It still works.

At a glance

Tool specifications

InputYour processor and graphics card from the list (or their watts, typed by hand), RAM sticks, SSDs and case fans — plus, optionally, hard drives, a liquid cooler, RGB and USB devices, overclocking and upgrade headroom
OutputThe PSU size to buy, the estimated peak load, which rule decided the size, connector and quality checks, a UPS size in VA, and the monthly and yearly running cost
MethodPeak load = the CPU’s maximum draw (AMD PPT, Intel Maximum Turbo Power) + the card’s board power + allowances for the rest (motherboard 50 W, 5 W per RAM stick, 7 W per SSD, 9 W per hard drive, 3 W per fan, 6 W for a pump, 15 W for RGB and USB). Recommended size = peak × 1.25, rounded up to the next standard size, and never below the graphics card maker’s own figure
Standard sizes450, 550, 650, 750, 850, 1000, 1200, 1300 and 1600 W
Parts coveredAMD Ryzen 5000, 7000, 8000G and 9000; Intel Core 12th–14th gen and Core Ultra 200S; NVIDIA GeForce RTX 30, 40 and 50; AMD Radeon RX 6000, 7000 and 9000; Intel Arc A and B series
Where the figures come fromEach maker’s own specification page, linked part by part under “Where the watts go”. A hand-checked snapshot, not a live feed — the date is on the page
UPS sizePeak load at the wall (÷ 0.88 for PSU efficiency) plus the monitor, ÷ 0.6 to convert watts to VA, rounded up to 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 or 3000 VA
Running costGaming draw (graphics card at 90% of its board power, processor at 50% of its maximum, the rest in full) ÷ 0.88, × your hours a day × 30 days × your price per kWh
Libraries usedNone. No vendored code, no CDN, no third-party request
Where processing happensIn your browser, on your device — nothing is uploaded
Saved anywhereNo. Not on a server, not in your browser’s storage, not in the page address
Works offlineYes, once the page has loaded, including as an installed app
Sign-upNot required, not offered
PriceFree

Questions

Power supplies, answered

How many watts does my PC need?
Add up what the parts can draw at full load: the processor's real maximum (not its TDP), the graphics card's board power, and roughly 70–110 W for the motherboard, memory, drives and fans. Then add 25% so the power supply never runs above about 80% of its label, and round up to a size you can buy. A Ryzen 5 7600 with an RTX 5060 peaks at about 324 W, so the sum alone says 450 W — but NVIDIA asks for at least 550 W for that card, so the calculator recommends 550 W. The graphics card maker's figure is always kept as the minimum, because it is written for a typical PC and an ordinary power supply.
Is a 650 W PSU enough for an RTX 5070?
Usually, yes — NVIDIA's own figure for the RTX 5070 is 650 W. Whether you need more depends on the processor. With a Ryzen 7 7800X3D the build peaks at about 503 W, and 650 W covers it with the 25% margin. With a Core i7-14700K, which is allowed to draw 253 W on its own, the peak climbs to about 594 W and the calculator recommends 750 W. Pick your exact processor and card above to see your number.
Why does the calculator use more than my processor's TDP?
Because the TDP on the box is not the most the chip will draw. AMD Ryzen processors are allowed to pull about 1.35 times their TDP (a 105 W Ryzen 5 7600X can draw 142 W, which AMD calls PPT), and Intel's Maximum Turbo Power is often far above its base power (a Core i5-14600K is sold as 125 W but is allowed 181 W). A motherboard runs the chip at that limit by default whenever it is busy, so that is the number a power supply has to cover. Calculators that add up TDPs undersize CPU-heavy builds.
Does a bigger PSU use more electricity?
No. A power supply only delivers what the parts ask for, so a 1000 W unit in a 400 W PC does not draw 1000 W. Efficiency is best between roughly 40% and 60% of the label, which is one reason sizing with headroom makes sense. Going far bigger than you need mostly wastes money at the shop, and at idle a very large unit can be a few watts less efficient. The running-cost panel works out what your build costs per month at your own tariff.
What size UPS do I need for a gaming PC?
Size it for the PC at full load plus the monitor, not for the PSU's label. Home UPS units are rated in VA, and about 60% of that is the watts they can carry, so a 600 VA unit handles roughly 360 W. The calculator turns your build's peak draw at the wall into a VA size. One catch that matters in India: most 80 Plus power supplies use active PFC, which can switch off on the stepped (modified sine wave) output of a cheap UPS, so a pure sine wave UPS is the safe choice for a gaming PC. Expect minutes of backup to save and shut down, not hours.
Is the SMPS that came with my cabinet good enough?
Usually not for a gaming PC. The unbranded SMPS bundled with budget cabinets often prints a big number like 450 W but delivers far less on the 12 V rail that the processor and graphics card use, and may skip protections against short circuits and over-current. Look for an 80 Plus certified unit from a known brand, with a warranty you can claim in India. Good units accept 100–240 V, so the normal ups and downs of Indian mains are within their range; a surge protector or a UPS handles spikes and cuts.
Why is the graphics card maker's number higher than the calculator's sum?
NVIDIA, AMD and Intel publish one figure per card that has to work for almost any PC it ends up in, including ones with hungry processors and cheap power supplies, so it is deliberately generous. When our sum for your exact build comes out lower, we still recommend the maker's figure, and say so under the answer. When your build needs more than the maker's figure — usually because of a high-draw processor — we recommend the bigger size.
Is anything I enter uploaded or saved?
No. The calculator and its parts list download to your browser once, and every figure is worked out on your device. The parts you choose and the numbers you type are never put in a network request or the page address, and nothing is saved in your browser. Google Analytics is told which graphics card you picked from the list and whether you asked for upgrade room, never a wattage. The easy proof: turn off your wifi after the page loads and keep calculating — it still works.

Still choosing the card itself? Our best graphics cards in India guide picks one at every budget, and the GPU price tracker shows what they cost this fortnight.

Keep it handy

Save it, share it, or tell us what’s missing

Come back to it

Bookmark the page, or pin it to your saved tools so it sits at the top of the tools list on this device.

A part missing, or a number wrong?

If your processor or graphics card is not in the list, or a figure disagrees with the maker’s spec sheet, tell us. The form opens with the tool already filled in, so you only have to name the part.